Free Flight: Scale-Sport
Bill Warner
THE Frenchman, E. Fillon, one of the most productive and creative modelers I know, sent me the plans of his latest creations, an FF electric "Gossamer Condor" with a pilot that really pedals! It looks great at about 1 meter span with a Graupner geared motor. It's covered with clear Mylar and has the batteries down under the pilot's seat for a super-low C.G. Flight testing has been curtailed due to the "Mistral," but it looks very flyable. Can be patched "scale," since MaCready used Magic Mending tape! Perhaps making a model once in a while which is really weird may not win a contest for you, but the attention you'll get will be more than that gained by the guy standing all by himself with his trophy and his Fike! Mull that one over, Cloudsters!
Although I would like to see more modelers move up to FF Scale from the other disciplines, they all are fun. Even RC has its good points. With the new miniature equipment available, you may soon be able to install it at the C.G. on your FF scale beauty, use it to help obtain good flight trim, and then remove it for flying the way it ought to be according to the purists! Even the great Bill Stroman has been known to tie a string to a wing tip and "whip-control" a new free-flight to see if all was in good order before flying free. If you don't think this is fun, ask him what happens when the string breaks! By such measures, you gain new insights into your model's capabilities! Certainly, plastic exhibition models also have their place (usually on a shelf). Dale Sebring takes a large-size plastic model, sheets it as if it were a mold core, removes the balsa skin structure, and flies it! Great stuff for simulating plywood-construction. When I begin to feel guilty about flying a Nesmith Cougar or Fike, then I think it will be time to try something more fun—such as swallowing goldfish.
The Mid-Hudson Modelmasters are at it again with The Red Baron, Hans von Heinigrabber (Earl Van Gorder?) and the Modelmaster Design Kit. In their nifty newsletter "Wing Tips," a crafty scheme to promote creativity among kit-weary enthusiasts is being launched. How would you react to receiving a 1/32 x 3 x 6" hunk of balsa sheet wrapped in about a square foot of Japanese tissue in your newsletter? Originated by Steve Curran, the idea is to use all the wire, lead, glue, rubber, etc., you want (no condenser paper, helium, microfilm balsa, or other cheaties) and the included materials to produce a flyable model. With prizes for duration, uniqueness, plans, and booby-prize, who could resist? An idea for your club to challenge your more jaded members? You might want to limit it to scale subjects, such as "any subject published in Model Aviation in any way in the months from January to May 1978"?
Rubber Lubes Come, and rubber lubes go.
For me, the smell of green soap evokes fond memories of early '60s meets. One of the bugaboos of flying rubber is either too much or too little lube. Too much of your favorite goo can decorate the interior of your jumbo scale model like you wouldn't believe. Many of the commercially-available preparations are subject to evaporation. You find your plane dry inside, but subject to exciting breakage.
Having tried everything from silicone lube in a tube to olive oil (Georges Chaulet's idea), I kind of like my latest concoction. (Editor: We favored margarine.) A trip to the local drug store brought back about four bucks worth of glycerin and/or green soap (a tincture: soap mixed with alcohol). This is not a new idea. Russ Steckel and Bill Watson, for example, like to boil their stuff "to thicken it up." I tried this and almost set the kitchen on fire. Reasoning that alcohol would also get lost naturally, I poured the green soap on plates and allowed Nature to take its course. In a fairly short time I found that the soap had, indeed, thickened greatly. Having problems mixing this with glycerin, I dumped it all into my dear wife's blender. The results were superb! It seems to last pretty well on the motor and also resists "der auffenflingen." P.S. Be prepared to take your wife out to dinner if she discovers what you're up to with her blender.
First Annual Flying Aces Nats:
Prepare yourselves for the event of the year, likened by some to attending the First Continental Congress. On July 15 and 16, at Johnsville Naval Air Station, 20 miles north of Philadelphia, a not-to-be-missed premiere will take place. This may well be the biggest scale contest ever held. C.D. Lin Reichel expects possibly 200 to 300 models on the basis of pre-contest registrations. If you can't make it in person, they'll even try to get someone to proxy-fly for you! Classes are Flying Aces Rubber Scale, Peanut Scale, Jumbo Scale, FAC Power Scale (gas, CO2, electric, combined with bonus points for CO2, electric), Nostalgia Profile, AMA Rubber Scale, Thompson Trophy Race, WW I combat, WW II combat, and Embryo Endurance. Contact: Lin Reichel, Erie Model Aircraft Assn., 3301 Cindy Lane, Erie, PA 16506.
For Dope Addicts Only: For those who mourn the passing of Banana Oil (my local paint store discontinued it last week!) the only answer to the model doping problem is nitrate dope. Unless you are doing glow engines, butyrate is a pain in the empennage. At some aircraft supply stores, you can still score nitrate at bargain-basement prices. For those of us out in the country, however, the price of $4.00/qt., including postage, isn't too outrageous for plasticized dope (so as not to shrink those flat flying surfaces). Available from Bob Ellington, United Modellers, 2913 Edwards Ave., Bakersfield, CA 93306, it last forever—if you don't make 1/4-scale Bonzos.
TWA (Thermal-Worthy) List: I would like to put together a list of proven thermal-worthy rubber scale ships. Do you have a plane that is now just a fond memory, having been claimed by a thermal? Or one that did over, say, two minutes? Let's share some of the information with other modelers. Send me the name of the ship, wing span (approximate weight), flight time, and any other data which you think might be useful, such as wing area, prop used, rubber size and type, etc. A 5" x 7" photo with good contrast and uncluttered background would be fantastic, but not necessary. You probably lose it before you took a picture anyway!
This, too, is Rigged? Ken Johnson suggests using surgical silk for that fine rigging job. According to Ken, the smoothness of the surface, with no tiny hairs bristling out, cuts drag significantly. Even standard silk thread is a great improvement over over-the-counter cotton or polyester. Compare them. Note: cyanoacrylate sticks silk thread like Gang Busters. Speaking of Cyanoacrylate: Having had two good friends, both adults making their living in modeling, get this instant-bonding marvel in their eyes with excruciatingly painful and expensive results, I think it important that those of us who are using this stuff, confine the danger inherent in its use to ourselves, by keeping it absolutely out of the reach of others. I have found kids in my classes at school (13 years old—not the most cautious age) who are addicted to its use. Maybe it is the age of the "pushbutton" and "instant results" society, but you have to draw the line somewhere. I'm just as impatient for glue to dry as kids are. But then, I wear protective glasses.
Many Thanks for all of the great letters, pictures, and kind words. I'll try to use as much as I can. Keep them coming.
Bill Warner, 423-C San Vicente Blvd., Santa Monica, CA 90402.
Transcribed from original scans by AI. Minor OCR errors may remain.
