New Comers
Bob Underwood
P.O. Box 40, St. Peters, MO 63376
What makes a "workshop" a workshop? That's a little hard to tell sometimes. If you're building an Easy B or Peanut Scale (indoor models), it could be part of a desktop in a room somewhere. On the other hand, most models require more space and materials. Here are some thoughts on what belongs in a workshop.
Work surface
To get a straight, true model from a kit, it must be built on a straight, true surface. One inexpensive approach is to use a plywood, flush hollow-core door. Select one made of lauan mahogany, since it is soft enough to accept pins while building. Doors are available in many widths, so finding one to fit your workspace isn't hard. A lumber yard will often have damaged doors for just a few dollars. Spend time sighting down the edges to make sure the door is flat. One advantage is that once you've filled one side with glue drops and cuts, you can flip it over.
Pins
Try some T-pins in several sizes. Stay away from your wife's or mother's sewing cabinet—watch out for those pretty little round plastic-head jobbies in multiple colors. Some of those are not designed to receive a hard push, and if you're not careful the head can shatter, followed by a not-so-friendly puncture.
Cutting tools
- Razor saw blades and a handle are good items to have.
- Knife blades and handles are necessary; the #11 blade will do most of the work, although tough or thick wood will require something heavier.
- Keep some single-edge razor blades around for scraping surfaces and trimming coverings.
Measuring and marking
A metal yardstick (or meterstick) and a small metal ruler are helpful. Old wooden sticks with metal inserts aren't the best choice, since they tend to be wavy. If you have sheet stock that will be used for planking (such as leading edges of wings), be sure the edge is true and not bowed lengthwise. If there is a bow, use the edge of the metal yardstick to cut along and true it up.
Keep a roll of masking tape handy, along with some fine-line marker pens. It doesn't hurt to mark parts as you build them. For instance, mark the ailerons "right" and "left" so that when you get to assembly time, you'll put them in the right place. Rarely do two "identical" parts fit interchangeably. (Virtually every modeler has committed the cardinal sin of building two right fuselage sides, two left wing panels, or similar.)
Robert's Rules of Modeling #1
When two wing panels have the root rib on the right side, it means you do not have a left one that is right. Therefore, you will need to build a left one to make it right. (If facing the leading edge of the wing, reverse the above—right and left.)
Squares and alignment
Have something available to use as a square to true up wing ribs, fuselage sides, or whatever when you place them on the plans. A plastic drafting triangle left over from high school is fine. (If you're in high school, check with a teacher to see if there are old ones about to be thrown away.) A cut-out portion at the 90° angle will help the triangle clear things like triangular ribs used to reinforce a fin-stabilizer joint.
Sanding
Sandpaper is needed at some point. Various grits are used in modeling, all the way from 60 (coarse) to 600 (fine). Remember, the lower the number, the coarser the grit. Most of what you'll need will be around 100 and finer. Use a T-bar sander or a block to back up the paper when working large areas such as leading edges. Bridge as much of the surface as possible to prevent peaks and valleys that happen when wood has different densities. Hardware stores now have neat little foam pads about 3/4 inch thick with different grits bonded to each side; they work well.
Robert's Rules of Modeling #2
When you look at a completed sanding job and say for the first time, "that's good!" it means you need to have at least one more go at it.
Find a nice big piece of soft foam rubber a foot or two square and one to three inches thick—preferably a couple of pieces. When you get down to finish-sanding and covering, it's always nice to have a cushion to set the pieces on while you work. Otherwise, those little dabs of glue on your bench will put dents in the side you just finished!
Clamps and small tools
Hunt around the house for old spring-type clothespins; they work really well as clamps. You may want to trim the knobs off the insides of some pins for special needs, or glue larger surfaces to some to prevent denting softer balsa.
A basic set of shop tools is virtually a necessity. These include:
- Drill and bits
- Screwdrivers (both blade and Phillips in smaller sizes)
- Pliers, especially a good pair of needle-nose pliers
- Long-handled "surgeon" clamps to reach inaccessible places
- A long pencil-like magnetic pickup for dropped nuts and small parts
- An extra-long drill bit (six inches or longer) for drilling in inaccessible places
- Metric Allen keys for many engines and hardware
Ventilation and safety
As you develop your workshop area, think carefully about ventilation. Modeling chemistry has become more complex—glues, paints, and other materials range from harmless to very toxic—so pay attention to what, how, and where you are using products.
Dust masks are valuable when sanding, and it pays to check the furnace filter often. Balsa dust really flies and will get into every crook and cranny. (I once had an old-style TV in my shop and was appalled at what I found when I took off the back to change a dead tube.)
Final thoughts
These are only a few basic thoughts about a workshop setup. There are a zillion ways to accomplish a task or to develop a line of thinking. Do not, under any circumstances, confine yourself to taking the advice of one "expert." Capture a dozen opinions and use your mental computer to determine the approach that best fits your needs. You may alter your thinking later as more data comes along—that's called learning. Humans are really good at that if they maintain open minds.
Robert's Rules of Modeling #3
Build carefully and do a good job, but don't concentrate on making that first model the consummate work of art. Chances are, it's not going to be a companion in your old age!
Transcribed from original scans by AI. Minor OCR errors may remain.
