Newcomers — 2001/01
Tomorrow is the big day!
TOMORROW IS the big day! The weather man has promised sunshine and a light breeze. The club instructor will be at the field at 9 a.m. You're ready—at least you think you are!
It feels as though it's been a long time since you approached the club members at the mall show—but it really hasn't. Some of the first questions you asked seem kind of silly now, but you appreciate how politely the members handled them.
The "How fast? How high? How far away can you control it? How much does it cost?" questions soon gave way to more relevant issues.
The show that piqued your interest featured everything—ultralight indoor models, Control Line (CL), and Radio Control (RC). You were afforded an excellent opportunity to compare the many aspects of aeromodeling. It also allowed you to do a "wallet check" to see how this newfound activity could fit in your budget.
Trips to the hobby shop and club meetings followed, along with the myriad relevant questions that developed as you prepared the model. Let's do a "home preflight check" before you go out to the field!
Home preflight check
Free Flight (FF)
This is tough to cover in a column—most of what you need to do will occur at the site. You've probably test-glided the model, or put in a few flights to see how it might fly. But the real test is when it's checked by a club member.
You can check for obvious warps and misalignment of the surfaces, but tweaking the flying surfaces may be required. You remember this because at the mall show the modeler would breathe on a wingtip and twist it a bit between flights, or place a small shim of wood under the wing or stabilizer. By now you understand that "trimming" is an essential part of the flight; once you release the model, it's at the mercy of the elements and your preparation.
Check to make certain you have the equipment you need. This will vary widely according to the type of model—whether it is hand-launch, indoor, rubber, etc. Make certain your AMA number and/or your name and address are on—or in—the model (indoor models are excluded). That's an AMA Safety Code requirement. It may make the difference between whether or not you get the model back when you hook a boomer of a thermal.
Control Line (CL)
You have the lines and handle. That's a requirement, since most CL models make poor FF models. It was touch-and-go for a while when you bought the lines because you weren't certain what length or diameter to use. It was also a concern when you learned you had to finish the lines with the attachment clips.
Fortunately, the club member you contacted sent you in the direction of the AMA Competition Regulations. That was also confusing at first, since the CL section had more than a dozen different charts! Then you realized your trainer wasn't a speed model, a combat model, or a Rat Race model. That's why the suggestion to use your model weight and engine size, and select the lines from the Precision Aerobatics chart made sense.
Hopefully your instructor will pull-test the system for you. Like a chain, the system is only as strong as the weakest link.
You have spare propellers, glow plugs, fuel, and a charged glow-plug battery. You also have protection for your fingers for when you start the engine, a fuel filler, and an assortment of screwdrivers, wrenches, etc.
Radio Control (RC)
Don't call it "remote control"! Actually it is, and so is CL, but with RC you are substituting a radio signal for steel lines.
Early RC models were FF models occasionally interrupted by a radio signal. Now the radio signal must be retained generally throughout flight, to prevent unintended servo movement and a subsequent "hard landing."
As you prepare for your flight, many of the same elements in FF and CL are required. Your flight box needs spare propellers, plugs, and other "stuff." You've charged (or are charging) the transmitter and receiver/servo batteries. You've tugged on all the surfaces, checked for warps and alignment, balanced the model for the 10th time (without fuel, of course!), and watched as the nose dipped slightly.
Remember that nose-heavy models fly sluggishly; tail-heavy models fly once!
Preflight checklist
- Tug on all control surfaces; check for secure hinges and anchor points.
- Check bellcrank movement: it should move freely but not be loose.
- Verify engine mounting and thrust angles (right thrust on many CL trainers).
- Ensure pushrods are supported along their length to prevent flexing.
- Balance the model correctly (do final balancing without fuel).
- Check leadouts and leadout guide position on CL models (slight rearward position can help maintain line tension).
- Pack spare props, glow plugs, fuel, charged batteries, and finger protection for starting the engine.
- Bring screwdrivers, wrenches, a fuel filler, and other small tools.
- Charge transmitter and receiver batteries; verify receiver and battery are mounted securely in foam.
- Make sure fuel-tank cap and fuel lines are tight and secure.
Control-surface setup and movement
You're not real certain about the amount of movement in the elevator. The plans weren't specific about that. The bellcrank and the control horn attached to the elevator often have several holes to choose from.
The laws of physics indicate that moving the pushrod out from the pivot point of the bellcrank gives you greater throw; moving the control-horn end closer to the elevator increases the throw.
The problem is how much elevator movement is correct. Err on the low side—too much elevator movement will cause an oversensitive, erratic model. Too little elevator movement, and you may not be able to do maneuvers—but at least you won't overcontrol.
Many CL models use a slight rearward position for the leadout guides near the wingtip. This is a kind of insurance to maintain line tension.
Each lap flown by a CL model has an upwind, downwind, and two crosswind portions, which happen in rapid succession. If you don't maintain line tension, you won't maintain control. Slack lines are no lines at all!
As with CL, the surface movement is controlled by the position of the clevis in the servo arm and the control horn. Out on the servo arm and in on the horn creates more control movement. Don't go to extremes. Hopefully your instructions will provide the typical setup.
If you have a system with dual rates on the elevator, ailerons, and rudder, make sure you let your instructor know if you have set them, and which direction the switch moves to activate the different rates.
Control checks at the field
While you are thinking about it, hook up the ailerons and place the wing in position on the model. Turn on the radio system and stand behind the model.
- Move the elevator stick toward the bottom of the transmitter and make certain the elevator moves upward.
- Move the aileron stick to the right. The right aileron should move up and the left aileron should move down.
- The rudder needs the same right-left movement as the ailerons.
- For the throttle, verify the barrel is wide open when the stick is moved toward the top of the transmitter.
All of this may sound elementary, but it's amazing how many times even old-timers end up with the ailerons going the wrong way in relation to the movement of the transmitter stick. This often happens because the modeler set the directions while facing the nose of the model, rather than standing behind the tail.
Also check:
- Each screw holding a servo arm on a servo is secure.
- There is a keeper on each of the clevises and they are locked in place.
- All servo mounting screws are in place and the servos are firm but not crushing the rubber grommet.
- The receiver and battery are mounted securely in foam.
- The fuel-tank cap is tight and the fuel lines are firmly in place on the tubing.
Personal items and attitude
You're ready. You have your AMA membership card and/or the card for the club. You packed your creature comforts—sunglasses, water, a snack. A hat with a brim is helpful to keep the sun and your hair out of your eyes.
It's not a bad idea to pack a small notebook and a pen or pencil. There will probably be some thoughts you'll want to jot down. These may be observations you make about the event, or those of the instructor.
Some individuals don't feel a degree of apprehension for the first flight, but most do. Each new model is a new experience. That's true for the old-timer as well. Your instructor probably feels a degree of concern too—it's your equipment being tested!
Although the preflight will help to reassure that you have done a good job building and preparing the model, there are still many problems that can develop or are undetectable. If something is found that suggests the model should not be flown, and it cannot be corrected at the field, be patient. Fix the problem and try again later.
Final thoughts
It's important to remember that a well-built and well-trimmed CL model will be a delight to fly. Some critics suggest that anything can fly as CL if you put a big enough engine on it! This is not true.
No matter what type of CL model you are considering, take proper care in setting it up to allow it to fly safely, efficiently, and pleasurably.
Happy first flight! Welcome to the group who are pilots with their feet on the ground! Start building your list of aviation sayings that are true for all of us.
Transcribed from original scans by AI. Minor OCR errors may remain.
