Newcomers

Bob Underwood

Newcomers

Box 40, St. Peters, MO 63376

This month's offering is prompted by a letter from Louis Lopez of San Marcos, TX. I think that's his name; his letter was informative and entertaining, but the signature was a little tough to read.

Louis recalled an incident during the infestation of grasshoppers, where he placed several in his model. A group of kids, attracted to the site by the sound of the engine, queried him concerning what made it fly. He told them that the model had a crew of grasshoppers that flew it! As proof, he took off the wing, and sure enough, five grasshoppers rapidly departed the scene!

Hopefully we won't get into trouble with animal-rights groups over that tale!

A main thrust of Louis' letter was that more often than not, little attention is given to helping newcomers discover what is needed in ground-support gear. In some ways, it's a little like the old story, "It ain't the initial cost—it's the upkeep!" You need the model, the power plant (or launch mechanism), and the radio (if it's RC). But what else is needed?

Seeking an answer, I went downstairs to see what my flightline box and other tool kits contained.

I discovered that I was carrying around things that I couldn't even identify! Parts like O-rings, needle valves, or whatever had accumulated over the years. Some of it dated back to the early '70s! These things were immediately ruled nonessential, since a newcomer doesn't have them in the "crooks and nannies."

Don't fear, though! Should the newcomer survive to become an "oldcomer," he or she will have gathered things, and will utter the words, "What in heaven's name is that for?"

Well, here goes!

Field box

• Field Box: It could be just a cardboard box, but a number of field boxes are available as kits or ready-made in various sizes. The box configuration typically holds a fuel bottle, 12-volt battery, electric starter, power panel, transmitter, spare props, glow plugs, etc.

Field boxes are good, but not essential. Some even have a detachable section to hold things only needed at the flightline. This suggests that certain tasks, such as fueling, will be done in the pit area; the fuel bottle never needs to make it to the flightline.

Now, the "stuff" in the box!

Common items for the field box

• Electric starter: Nice, but not absolutely necessary. It really helps remove the frustration brought on by a balky engine, but some old-timers maintain that "real" modelers flip the prop to start.

• Glow driver: Necessary, unless it is a sailplane or a non-engine-powered model. The positive clip-on is good; a driver with a meter is also nice because it lets you know if the plug is working or if the battery is still charged.

• Power panel: Nice to have, but not necessary.

• 12-volt cell: Unless you're running an electric fuel pump or starter, this is not needed. A gel cell is good; it won't spill if tipped.

• Fuel pump: You'll need some way to transfer fuel to the model. A simple squeeze-bulb, a hand-operated rotary pump, or an electric pump can be used. Make sure there is a filter somewhere in the system; often this is located at the end of the pickup tube in the fuel bottle.

• Chicken stick: Usually a plastic-coated stick that is used to flip the prop through for starting. Rubber finger guards or heavy gloves can also be used. Even if you normally use an electric starter, it doesn't hurt to have a chicken stick.

• Other "stuff" includes:
• Spare props and glow plugs
• Fuel line
• Cyanoacrylate (CyA) glue and/or epoxy
• Assortment of Phillips, slotted, and metric screwdrivers
• Plug and prop wrenches
• Ball drivers or hex wrenches
• Needle-nose pliers, long surgical clamps
• Machine and wood screws, nuts
• #64 rubber bands (this is the size of the rubber band — not the quantity)

Illumination / equipment definitions

• Power panel: A central monitoring device that's usually mounted on the field box. It contains outlets and electrical power for the starter, fuel pump, glow plugs, etc. Some have a meter and a dial that will allow you to tell if a glow plug is fouled and increase the output to clear it out.

• Glow driver: The simplest carries a shaft that slips over the glow plug and provides contact for an internal Ni-Cd to light the plug. Some have more-positive locks than others, so make sure they are secure before attempting to start the engine.

• Gel cell: A battery that contains a gel-like substance instead of liquid acid; if tipped, it won't spill.

• Chicken stick: Shame on you! You didn't read the column!

• #64 rubber bands: This is the size of the rubber band — not the quantity.

There are a number of items that often prove handy to have in an emergency: black electrical tape and clear plastic packaging tape (for that slit or puncture in the model's plastic covering); a long magnetic pickup (for nuts that fall where fingers can't grab them); a spare clevis for the pushrod end; an X-Acto keyhole saw, and small needle files.

We could go on forever, and turn your van into a workshop, but logic suggests that if you're having problems at the field, you should probably just pack up and head for home to fix the problem. The difficulty with logic, though, is that we often don't heed it!

Your brain warns you that you should listen to logic, but emotionally, it's "I'm here and it's a long way home! I'll jury-rig it (or fly it with it broken)!"

This isn't a good idea. Remember the old adage, "Mechanical things do not cure themselves!" A broken model tends to become more broken if flown!

To improperly conjugate a verb, it's "broke, brokener, brokenest." The synonym for the last verb is "trash"!

Creature comforts and safety

• Sunglasses: Useful for eye protection and reducing glare while flying.

• Drinking water or soft drinks: Stay hydrated; forget the alcoholic beverages unless you possess the willpower to refrain from drinking before or during flying—that is an AMA Safety Code violation.

• Kneeling pad: A pad to kneel on keeps dampness and mud off your trousers and allows more room for fuel and glue stains. Foam pieces or old carpet squares also work—just don't cut them from the living-room carpet!

• Sun protection: A brimmed or billed hat and sunscreen are valuable; it's amazing how long we've been out in the sun, and we compound exposure by looking into the sky.

Model cradles and holders

Some type of cradle or holder for the model is helpful. A number of companies still sell them in various forms, from a few dollars for one made of foam to $100 or more for an elaborate version. Some field boxes have attachable cradle pieces for this purpose. The more expensive boxes have raised legs so you can sit or stand to work on the model (this helps the older newcomers!). Another possibility is to cut a cradle opening in the ends of an inexpensive foam cooler.

A cradle or holder will also help keep your model from sliding around in the car or van. When your wife asks, "How did it go?" it's really hard to tell her that you "crashed" in the trunk on the way to the field!

Support equipment

Support equipment will become important as you become more deeply involved in the hobby.

• Meter: To read the state of your transmitter and receiver batteries.

• Field peak-charger: Useful because newcomers are often tempted to pack as much flying as possible into one day. All that "on" time adds up quickly, and dead batteries while in the air equal a dead model.

There is one nice thing about the hobby: since you are heeding this column's advice and are not flying alone, there may be another modeler who can provide you with that widget you left at home or never bought.

Modelers are almost always generous with advice, aid with supplies, and giving a helping hand. Accept these graciously; someday you'll be able to reciprocate. Don't overdo the "mooching," though!

Transcribed from original scans by AI. Minor OCR errors may remain.