RADIO CONTROL ELECTRICS
Bob Kopski
25 West End Drive, Lansdale PA 19446
This month's column is an overview of the most-frequently asked reader questions.
Frustrated or maybe "disappointed" is often how I feel when readers write with questions on matters just recently covered in this column. It's as though I just didn't do a good job of covering a given subject—time and time again.
And it's not just "readers" (people "out there, somewhere") but even local folks who do this to me! I've learned to live with this by accepting that there are always new E-modelers, and that folks just can't remember everything.
Over time, readers' questions cover all topics. I'm constantly amazed at the broad range of reader pursuits and the inquiries they bring. However unique and advanced many inquiries are, there are many routine and frequently occurring questions—the sort of questions most folks are likely to run into sometime along the electric way.
Getting into Electric
Tell me everything about getting into electric...
Please understand that you are basically asking for a book, and I just can't respond to such an inquiry in a personal letter. Your best move is to buy a book; currently I'm recommending Bob Aberle's Clean and Quiet — The Guide to Electric Powered Flight. I discussed this book more fully in the March '96 column. While most E-modelers could benefit from this text, I'm strongly recommending it for beginning and limited-experience E-modelers, especially those with minimal local sources of help or information.
Other good sources:
- Read the electric columns in as many recent years' magazines as possible. There are at least five modeling magazines in the U.S., each with an electric column—one year's worth represents about 60 chapters.
- Inquire of club members for magazine back issues. Not everything will be immediately useful, but you'll build a strong foundation for future use.
Product questions and speed controls (ESCs)
I routinely receive reader questions about specific electric products. Often an inquiry will reference a product I've used, so a response is easy. It's not possible for me to buy and try every product, so sometimes I must decline comment. However, I often know someone with relevant experience or I've observed an item in use, and I can reply from those perspectives.
Commonly asked about: speed controls. Readers often ask which ESC is "best and cheapest." Depending on the application, I try to suggest several products for consideration.
ESCs I use most:
- Jomar SM-4
- Jomar Min-Max
- Flightec SP
- Steve Neu "Micro FAI" (small, jewel-like; analog)
- Aveox dedicated ESCs (several current versions)
Notes:
- The SM-4 and Steve Neu units are analog designs; others incorporate microprocessors.
- If you have an Aveox motor you pretty much need an Aveox controller.
- I avoid ESCs that have not worked well for me; evaluation units that performed poorly I discuss only with manufacturers. Product designs change, and my recommendations can change as new or revised designs arrive.
Motors
Electric modeldom is well blessed with motor choices these days. Products I personally use and/or see most in use locally include:
- Astro line
- Aveox line
- Model Electronics products
- Economy "can"-type motors (often packaged with entry kits)
- Speed series (Hobby Lobby)
I can't test every motor, but I can often accommodate specific reader questions or refer to other E-modelers with relevant experience.
Gear drives
The marketplace is well stocked with gear drives. My preferences:
- Astro gearboxes: first choice—rugged, reliable, well worth the price. With proper care these drives just never quit. They are intended to mate with Astro motors; sizes and ratios are limited.
- Astro 05/15 and 25/40 gearboxes can fit many other 05 motors; both can be adapted to Aveox motors—check with Aveox for details.
- Model Electronics: good for higher gear ratios at the low-to-moderate-power end.
- Leisure radial-mount drives: good below about 200–250 peak watts.
- Modelair-Tech belt drives: useful for the highest-power systems.
Batteries and battery care
Battery choices and questions bring a lot of reader mail. We are well blessed here, too.
My personal approach:
- I use only Sanyo cells and build my own packs. Most of my experience is with 1.4 SCR and 1.7 SCRC cells; my favorite supplier is B&T.
- Many acquaintances favor motor packs from SR Batteries; these are popular and respected.
- I have no relevant experience with economy mail-order packs marketed as RC car batteries.
Battery care recommendations:
- Treat motor batteries with dedicated attention. Batteries are expensive—good care of quality packs will yield long performance life.
- Use peak chargers and periodically "slow charge" motor packs overnight to help equalize cells after high-rate use.
- Storage: I store packs "empty" between flying sessions. After flying, the motor pack is dead—no longer able to fly the airplane—and that's how it stays until the next time out. This approach works for me; my packs have lasted many years (I logged 431 flights in 1995).
Chargers and charging power source
Charging equipment has improved in variety and quality. I encourage buying on the heavy side—invest in a good charger rather than skimping.
Charger recommendations:
- Astro 110D Peak Charger (my strongest recommendation for most E-modelers; discussed in the 4/96 and 5/96 columns)
- SR Batteries Smart Charger/Cycler (more costly but a top-notch, do-everything product; I have two in regular use, plus the 110D)
Power source practices:
- I use the battery installed in my car. I've customized my mini-van with a heavy cable from the vehicle battery to the rear of the van and basically "fly out of my car."
- Many modelers access the car battery under the hood. Be cautious: the car body is usually connected to the negative terminal, and temperature-controlled radiator fans can come on without the car running—work carefully.
- Some modelers carry a separate car battery in a carrier or box with a handle. Transport them in the trunk, secured to prevent tipping; spilled electrolyte (sulphuric acid) is hazardous.
- Avoid using smaller batteries (motorcycle batteries), except for very small electrics with five-cell or fewer low-capacity packs. The smallest battery I recommend is a lawn-tractor battery—and only for limited application.
- If you need a portable source, use a car battery in a proper plastic carrier.
Recommended car battery:
- Interstate Megatron 34. These are serviceable (not maintenance-free), deep-cycle rated, and limited-warranted for such applications.
Model- and power-system selection advice
Many reader questions ask "which motor/battery/controller?" for a specific model. To help me give useful recommendations, please provide as many particulars as you can:
- Is it a kit, construction article, or scratch-built?
- How large? Wing area?
- Airfoil?
- Is this a wet conversion?
- Empty weight or weight when wet-powered?
- Flying preference: sailplane, scale, sport, aerobatic?
- Spending constraints or size interest?
- Is anyone locally flying E-power?
Other notes:
- Large electric scale is rapidly becoming popular; I often refer questions to experienced E-modelers in that arena.
- I respond to questions accompanied by an SASE. I typically do my mail about every three to four weeks. If you don't hear in a few days, don't give up—I do respond.
Happy electric flying, everyone—and don't forget the SASE!
Transcribed from original scans by AI. Minor OCR errors may remain.
